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Click pictures to enlarge them |
Think Safety --
Work Safely |
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This is what the holder looks like
mounted on the trailer. Because of the limited space between the boxes,
I had to design the carrier so the fuel can could slide horizontally, for
removal. The chock block actually holds the fuel can in place. Security
is provided via an inexpensive bicycle chain and lock. In reality, the
chain is more of a psychological barrier than anything else. It seemed
to match the value of the item protected. |
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Here is a photo of the carrier with the
chock block removed. It is easy to see that the can, can now be easily
slid out for removal. |
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This is what I started with, an ammo
can which cost me $5.00 at the local surplus store.
Caution, not all
ammo cans are the same size. I found there to be 1/4 of an inch
difference in width between boxes. The difference seemed to be related
to the type of ammunition that the box was designed for. |
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Here are the tools and
materials I used to make the carrier.
- Electric hand drill with assorted bits.
- Jig/saber saw with fine tooth metal cutting blade.
- Pop Rivet gun and pop rivets.
- Straight edge.
- Pencil
- File (for smoothing edges).
- Sandpaper
- Safety glasses
- Tape Measure
- Paint - primer and finish.
- Lacquer Thinner (for cleaning prior to painting)
- Tin snips (not pictured).
- Vice grips (not pictured)
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Wow, I am really going bald! |
- Remove the lid and set it aside, you won't need it. It comes off
easily.
- Drill out the spot welds on each end of the box,
the ones that hold the hinge and
the latch onto the box. While doing it like this looks difficult, it
was the best way to apply enough pressure to get the drilling done.
I used a 3/16 " drill. You might have to use a larger drill if the
welds are too strong.
Note: On the second box I did, the hinge was actually
hardened a bit, I went through several drill bits in order to get
the hinge side drilled. This was not the case with the first carrier
I did.
- Use a cold chisel and ball peen hammer to
separate the spot welds and remove the hinge and latch parts.
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Before this step,
take a moment to think. Perhaps in your application, the fuel
container can be removed vertically from the top. In this case, you can
rivet the chock block straps higher on the box than what I did. Perhaps
flush at the bottom, they
would actually be stronger. I had to fasten mine at the bottom like I
did so I would be able to slide the container out sideways.
If you want the sideways option, Scribe a line 2" down from the top edge
of the box all four sides. Otherwise, locate the straps higher up. |
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On the line you drew, drill a series of
small holes just as wide than the jig saw blade so you have a place to
start. Then use the jig saw to cut the box along
the line you scribed. The more careful you are to get a nice even cut,
the less smoothing you will have to do with the file. The blade tends to
grab the metal as you go so be careful and go slow. Clamping some
plywood on the inside might help the grabbing. This is also a very noisy
procedure, protect your hearing if you are interested in being able to
hear when you are older. |
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Now cut the piece you just cut off of
the box in the middle, with tin snips. |
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Now you have two. |
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Measure and mark a line 1" from the
bottom edge along both sides. If you are not
needing a sideways removal of the can, this step is not necessary. |
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Before doing this step,
do a trial fit with your chock block and make sure that the bulk of
the block is below the straps top. If you end up with the chocks
being "top-heavy", the chocks could fly out when you hit those big bumps
or during large wind gusts. Measure and draw a line 3 and 1/4
inches from the closed end as shown, on both ends. The masking tape is being used
only to help clarify the process. |
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This photo shows the relation between the
lines you made on the box and on the chock bracket. |
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Drill for one of the pop rivets. Watch
out, the pieces want to sneak a little out of alignment as you drill.
Remember to de-burr the inside of the box so the rivet will seat
properly. Once one
rivet is in, it is easier to make the final alignment. |
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Drill the other rivet hole and install
the second rivet making sure to keep things as visually square as
possible. Perform the same procedure to the other side. |
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Using tin snips, cut an angle as shown
to remove the sharp 90 degree edge on both sides. |
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This photo shows the relationship
between the box and the chock block strap. |
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If you want to be able to slide the fuel
can out the side, cut off the end of the box to match the outside edge
of the fuel can, otherwise, bypass this step. |
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Attach the strap just the same as you
did on the other end of the box. Notice that I used vice grips to hold
the pieces securely while drilling. |
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Trim the corners like you did on the
other end. |
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Here is what you got if things are done
right. Note: I rounded top right edge corner.
Things left to do, drilling mounting holes in the
bottom, removing all the sharp edges, sanding, priming and painting. If
you opted to leave both ends intact, you should probably install some
drain holes for rain water which might accumulate. |
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When mounting the unit on your trailer,
be certain that you have no exposed bolt heads that will wear a hole
into the bottom of the container. I used elevator bolts and lock nuts. |
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This is what is left of the original
ammo can. |
